We return for our second edition of “Savoring Southtown” with a restaurant that we’d review every month, if we could. Since moving to San Antonio three years ago, Feast has been one of our favorite places. Nevertheless, we’ll do our best to remain unbiased. (Even your favorite haunt can slip up or loosen its standards.)
Keeping the strictest journalistic standards in mind, Feast is still the bee’s knees. We sat inside on a chilly evening, puzzling over pieces of the funky decor. Feast is certainly loud inside, but that’s just a good reason to scoot in closer to your dining partner.
We kicked off our meal with selections from the royalty-themed house cocktail menu, usually a good bet for a strong start. The wine list is adequate, and the beer list has introduced us to some new gems, while also steadfastly offering Lone Star (more properly drunk down the street at Bar America).
Feast’s seasonal menu means that this review may lose some relevance in a few months, but it also shows off the care and creativity of chef Stefan Bowers and his team. An off-menu item for the evening featured purple sweet potato gnocchi and chanterelle mushrooms with an inky black sabayon, just in time for Halloween.
We started with a well-balanced asparagus dish with egg and hazelnut. Next, we ordered the mussels, which wowed us with a slightly spicy cilantro sauce, and followed with the gnocchi. Unsure whether to sample another savory dish or try dessert, we compromised with the corn fritters, cake-like nuggets served with a jalapeno cream cheese. (We also highly suggest the mac and cheese with chorizo oil breadcrumbs as an alternative knock-out punch.)
Finally, a word about Feast’s future. As reported in the Express-News, the restaurant’s owner Andrew Goodman is involved in a lease dispute with the landlord. The issue appears headed to court. In the meantime, Goodman has purchased old Fire Station #7 at 604 S. Alamo, initially as a future home for Feast. Now, Goodman may have other plans for the old station. It would be a shame to lose Feast, but if it really isn’t long for this Earth, head there soon. And trust us on the mac and cheese.
- Kristin Krenz and Patrick Steck